New routes on Jebel Milehis, Sinai, Egypt

New routes on Jebel Milehis, Sinai, Egypt

New routes on Jebel Milehis, Sinai, Egypt

In the mid-March 2021, as a part of the rock climbing course in Sinai, a team of instructors and students of Mountain World established two new routes on Jebel Milehis in the area of Dahab.

Jebel Milehis is located in the White Desert (Wadi Ghazala), an hour's drive from Dahab. Drive down the road to Santa Caterina, and after the second checkpoint at the junction towards Nuweiba, turn right living asphalt for the sandy road (28.868542, 34.465983 exit point). Next you will need a jeep. After 5.5 km, there is common "parking" space at the foot of eastern face of Milehis (28.915859, 34.479282).


 

Route description "Pasochka", Mount Milehis, South Sinai, Egypt


R0-R1. 35 m, II. A careful traverse to the left along the ledge, then up en easy rock to the next ledge.
R1-R2. 55 m, 5c+. Climb the corner, go up to the chimney (weak rock), then traverse leftwards to an off-width crack. Along the crack (the crux, cam # 6 will add confidence) go to the terrace at the base of the chimney. Look for a cairn.
R2-R3. 55 m, 5a. Up the chimney, then left along the ledges and up the solid wall.
R3-R4. 40m, easy. Going up along the scree, and to the right under the next wall. Look for a cairn.
R4-R5. 35 m 5a. Climnig up the corners, intermittent with ledges.
R5-R6. 25 m 5b. Straight up on the wall, cut with the wide crack in the upper part.


Pasochka line, another angle

Photos of pithes

R1-R2

R2-R3, chimney

R2-R3

R2-R3

R4-R5

R4-R5, start

R5-R6

 

Route description "Serenity, f…ck", Mount Milehis, South Sinai, Egypt


R0-R1. 55 m, 5c. An awakening start, then along an easy rock, traverse to the right and up to a ledge under the bottom of the corner with cracks.
R1-R2. 40 m, 5a. Go up the corner, next traverse along the ledge to the base of at chimney.
R2-R3. 60 m, 5a. Up the chimney, then taking the easiest way to the base of the corner formed by the wall and a series of huge flakes.
R3-R4. 55 m, 5b. Along the corner and the wall. Take left, passing by tracery overhang in the upper part.
R4-R5. 40 m, easy. Straight up the scree to the bottom of the wall.
R5-R6. 40 m III. Go up simple rocks and traverse rightwards to the scree terrace at the base of the dihedral.
R6-R6. 30 m, 5a. Climb up the dihedral, out to the plateau.

 

 

Photos of pithes

R0-R1

R2-R3

R3-R4, start

R3-R4

R6-R7

R3-R4

 

The team on the plateau

Descent
Two options:
1. Go to the cliff of the north face. Cairns will lead to the bolted belay. Two rappels for the entire 60m. The second rappel is over air without touching the wall.
2. Go south following the cairns to the descent path.


The rock on Milehis is the sandstone, sometimes brittle. If you have no experience of climbing the sandstone, it is better to climb first the bolted lines "Magic Bean" 5c, 2 pitches and "Black Pearl" 6a +, 4 pitches. Placing gears demand geat care. Large hexes and large cams are most commonly used. Czech knots technique skills will also prove useful. 

The team:
Dmytro Dovbnya
Oleksandr Bilyi
Oleksandr Borodavka
Grygorii Maksiuk
Tetyana Schastlyvenko-Slezinska
Kateryna Rublova
Maksym Kuraliesov
Mykhailo Poddubnov